3rd European Pair Go Championship - Album

April 8-9, Brno, Czechia

Brno is not an easy place either to pronounce or to visit for a weekend. My pair-go partner Jackie Chai and I opted for a Friday Czech Airlines flight to Prague, with an internal connection. The five-hour wait in Prague entails a day off work for J., but a chance for me to show her round my favourite European city.

The internal connection, flight number OK 5034, turns out to be a bus. Following a merry hour in the Prague Friday traffic, and road works on the motorway, we are forty minutes late at Brno. Which means that Pavel, who had undertaken to meet us, has been standing that long in the cold. His friendly uncomplaining attitude is typical of our Czech hosts.

Taxi to quite a posh hotel, which also serves as playing venue, opening ceremony, and welcome snack. There are 14 pairs from outside Czechia, so the Czechs have entered two pairs, to keep the numbers even. Strengths vary considerably, from pairs who are both kyu players, to the Hungarians, both 5-dan, who are expected to win.

First round on Saturday morning; we beat Yugoslavia. Then comes the coach excursion to the site of that most famous battle, where so many tens of thousands died, and which affected the course of European history, Slavkov. There is a small museum, where you can follow the course of Napoleon's tactics, and a "peace tumulus". We are told that is is the only one in the world. I am inclined to believe this on general grounds, but the point is that monuments commemorating battles are usually erected in pride by the victorious side. This one is dedicated to the fallen of both armies, and to peace between the warring states. Without much success, as World War I broke out soon after it was built. Then on to Slavkov Castle, a Czech stately home where the armistice was signed by Napoleon and his defeated opponents. In case you haven't twigged yet, Slavkov is the Czech name for Austerlitz.

We have been asked to order our lunch in advance, to speed up service at the Slavkov restaurant. As a result, our meal arrives in not much over the hour, at around 3 pm. Just as well we sped things up ...

Back at the hotel, now delayed by some two hours, we join battle with Czechia B, one of the all-kyu pairs who nonetheless give us trouble before we win. The third and last round of the day is against Germany; they outclass us, but we make them work for their win. Then on to a central Brno restaurant for a rather late dinner; it's about 10.30 when the first food arrives. There is a trio of violin, accordion and double bass playing traditional music; real music played by real human beings; no loudspeakers, no thump thump thump. Very civilized.

Pair-go is supposed to be as much a social activity as a competitive one, and this championship was outstandingly successful in that respect. Whether it be politically correct to say such a thing or not, there is a very pleasant atmosphere when the sexes are balanced, which you don't get at the usual male-dominated tournaments. Nowhere was this feeling more apparent than at this dinner. Pair-go seems an excellent way of encouraging women to take up go; long may it flourish.

After dinner we have a chance to sing go songs. I get appointed song leader, with accompaniment from Jasmina Mutabzija from Croatia on guitar, and some vigorous vocal support from the Polish pair. The last tram leaves at 12.50 am, but the somewhat arcane method of paying our bills leaves several of us stranded. An organiser waits for us, and bundles us into taxis. No charge.

On Sunday we have a lucky win against Croatia; some pair-go jiggery- pokery is required; i.e. working out very carefully who is likely to understand what. Our reward is a match with Hungary; this is the only time that we are really overwhelmed.

It transpires that Germany are the winners, having secured an upset victory over second placed Hungary. As we have played both teams, we have a good SOS, and end up fifth, behind Netherlands and Romania. We also win a bottle of slivovitz for travelling the furthest distance.

We have a spare hour before our bus-flight back to Prague, so, just when most tournament organisers would be ready to collapse in a heap, Pavel makes it his business to give three of us a quick guided tour of the city centre, before seeing us safely onto our transport.

This tournament was pair-go at its best. Nothing was too much trouble for our hosts; the welcome was personal and sincere. Full marks to the Czech Go Association.

Vineyard dinner
Visit to Slavkov (Austerlitz)